When you think of the UK’s picturesque seaside towns or villages, your mind might instantly wander to the coasts of Devon or Cornwall in the south-west, or perhaps Kent or Sussex in the south-east. Even if Wales did cross your mind, it’s likely you’d be picturing somewhere in Pembrokeshire.
However, there’s a hidden treasure nestled on the Carmarthenshire coast (more renowned for its lush green hills than its coastline) that deserves your attention. You could easily miss it as you drive west towards Pembrokeshire.
But if you take a detour from the bustling A40 trunk road just outside the historic market town of Carmarthen and venture down a tranquil B-road through the countryside, you’ll soon spot a stretch of golden sand and the seemingly serene waters of the Tywi estuary.
Overlooking it all, majestically positioned on a hilltop, are the remnants of a grand medieval castle. Welcome to Llansteffan, a delightful village that remains relatively unknown beyond west Wales.
Here, alongside the beach and castle, you’ll discover pubs, shops, eateries and notably fewer crowds compared to the UK’s other seaside and staycation hotspots, reports the Express.
This charming village is nestled on the northern shore of the Tywi estuary, where the river greets the waters of Carmarthen Bay after a leisurely journey from the hills of mid Wales. The tidal ranges here are quite dramatic, so beach-goers should be mindful of the water.
However, the sand is just right: firm enough for building sand castles, yet soft enough to enjoy that delightful sensation of walking barefoot.
When the tide rolls in, Llansteffan beach becomes accessible, with direct foot access from the village and a car park for those who need it. Amenities include a public toilet, a small children’s play area, and a fish and chip hut – perfect for enjoying a seaside supper.
And when the tide recedes, you can also explore the equally expansive Scott’s Bay, where smooth sand meets intriguing rock pools.
Wales is known for its abundance of castles, a testament to centuries of conflict between Anglo-Norman lords and feuding Welsh tribes (who were just as likely to fight each other as they were the English). To the north, tucked away in rural Carmarthenshire, you’ll find the hilltop fortresses of Dinefwr, Dryslwyn, and the awe-inspiring Carreg Cennen within close proximity of one another.
A short jaunt along the coast to the west will take you to Laugharne Castle, while Kidwelly Castle lies a few miles to the east.
Llansteffan Castle is a hidden gem that rivals any other, with its 12th-century structure majestically perched on a headland overlooking Carmarthen Bay. This historic site has been strategically important since prehistoric times.
Despite being in ruins for centuries, the castle offers a wealth of exploration opportunities, and the views from atop are nothing short of breathtaking. The formidable gatehouse, complete with arrow slits, still stands as a testament to the castle’s once-impenetrable defences.
Venture inside to discover the remnants of the inner and outer wards, which reveal the castle’s past life as both a military stronghold and a lordly residence.
For those keen to visit, well-marked paths lead up to the castle from either the village or the beach. Visitors can freely wander through the ruins, scale the battlements, and soak up the expansive views that, on a good day, stretch for miles.
When it comes to dining in Llansteffan, the Inn at the Sticks steals the show. Crowned as the Best Local Restaurant in Wales by the Good Food Guide last year, this pub, restaurant, and deli celebrates Welsh ingredients.
Expect to find typical coastal dishes like cockle popcorn in crispy Welsh beer batter, scallop and sewin roulade, wild game farmhouse terrine, and a beetroot “symphony” – an inventive recipe featuring beets prepared five ways. It’s a culinary treasure that one reviewer hailed as a “rare find”.
The quaint establishment offers a selection of cosy rooms for an overnight stay, priced very reasonably between £120-140, which is just perfect after a day filled with sea breeze and scrumptious meals. One satisfied guest gushed: “The rooms provide the same blend of charm and comfort. They are beautifully designed with vintage touches-like iron bed frames and low beamed ceilings-combined with modern amenities and complimentary Welsh cakes. The décor balances rustic charm with cosy elegance, making each room feel unique and intimate.”
For those looking for a homely touch, there’s also the option to book a charming cottage on AirBnb.
Llansteffan itself is a treasure trove of activities, offering days filled with beach strolls, historical exploration, and delectable dining without ever needing to leave. However, if you’re itching to see more, there are numerous attractions just a short drive away.
Across the estuary lies Laugharne, renowned for its association with Dylan Thomas and his iconic boathouse.
Venture slightly further west and you’ll find Pendine, boasting one of the UK’s longest sandy beaches and a history peppered with land speed records. To the east, Pembrey Country Park awaits with another expansive sandy stretch, Cefn Sidan, and a park that’s a hit with kids thanks to its adventure playground, woodlands, and cycling paths.
A short distance away, the charming Carmarthenshire towns of Llandeilo and Llandovery offer a wealth of options for dining, drinking, and accommodation amidst their picturesque rural market settings.
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