On a cold and damp winter’s day, there are few sights as inviting as a cozy country pub emanating a warm glow. My eagerness to visit this charming country pub in a quaint Vale of Glamorgan village stemmed from several reasons. Firstly, its stellar reputation for delectable food had intrigued me. Secondly, despite cycling past it numerous times, I had always resisted the urge to abandon my bike and step in for a pint.
However, the paramount reason for my visit was that this particular pub is owned by a renowned sports figure. Two decades ago, I was among the spectators when Gavin Henson executed a legendary and pivotal kick in Welsh rugby history. Despite not being the primary kicker for Wales that day, Henson courageously stepped up in the final minutes of the game against England in Cardiff. From an incredibly challenging angle, he launched the ball 44 meters, securing a remarkable victory for Wales and marking a new chapter in Welsh rugby.
Henson, with his distinctive spiky hair, bronzed complexion, shaved legs, and remarkable physique, ascended to superstardom. Alongside singer Charlotte Church, he formed a high-profile celebrity duo, often featured in UK tabloids and Heat magazine during the mid-to-late-2000s, earning them the moniker “Welsh Posh and Becks.” His ventures extended to television, including an appearance on Strictly Come Dancing and a role in The Bachelor.
Beyond his celebrity status, Henson was recognized for his exceptional athletic prowess and unwavering dedication. Despite his penchant for standing out, he garnered widespread admiration. Reflecting on his current stance, a recent podcast delved into Henson’s preference for a low-key life in St Brides Major, a serene village near his upbringing. He shies away from the limelight, seldom granting interviews and even declining participation in a BBC podcast, showcasing his inclination towards privacy.
In 2019, Henson and his wife, Katie, assumed ownership of The Fox, where a conspicuous black Bentley in the car park hinted at his association. Following a substantial refurbishment, the pub reopened in February 2020, just before the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic that led to the closure of pubs nationwide. Early reviews commended the food and hospitality, with Henson actively engaging with patrons. Two years later, the pub garnered attention as it urgently sought a new head chef amid the challenges posed by the pandemic and Brexit on the hospitality industry.
Presently, The Fox exudes a timeless charm and comfort, evoking a sense of familiarity upon entry. The interior boasts a blend of homeliness and elegance, featuring flagstone flooring, navy blue and off-white walls, rustic wooden furnishings, and tasteful Christmas adornments. Seated at a cozy corner table, we savored Butty Bach ale and Jeremy Clarkson’s Hawkstone lager while perusing the menu. The wine selection, starting at a reasonable price point, offered a tempting variety.
The Sunday menu, succinct yet appealing, presented a choice of starters and main courses. Opting for crispy ham hock with confit egg yolk, fennel, and apple, and a cod and salmon fishcake with samphire and caper butter, we relished the crispy exteriors and flavorful fillings. The main courses, roast sirloin of Welsh beef and shoulder of Welsh lamb, impressed with their generous portions and delectable flavors, accompanied by a medley of sides and a rich gravy. Even the kids’ meals were well-received.
As we concluded our meal, which left us too full for dessert, the total bill for two starters, two mains, two kids’ meals, two beers, and a fruit juice amounted to £91, with my portion totaling £37. The inviting ambiance and delectable fare left me feeling right at home, a sentiment echoed by nearby diners expressing their intent to return. Indeed, my experience at The Fox can be summarized in four words: a place worth revisiting, despite missing the chance to encounter one of my sporting idols.